When Georges Favre-Jacot established his manufacture in 1865, his objective was to create ‘the perfect watch’: the finest, most precise and most reliable timepiece ever made. This quest for perfection is reflected in the very name of his brand, ZENITH, referring to the highest point in the sky. To celebrate its 160th anniversary and its quest for excellence in all fields of watchmaking art, the brand releases a timeless classic powered by an exceptional movement. Named after the initials of Georges Favre-Jacot, the sleek, slender and elegant G.F.J. brings back to life the legendary calibre 135, the most awarded movement from the golden age of observatory chronometer competitions.
ZENITH, Chronometry and the legendary calibre 135
Decades ago, observatory trials were extremely important. Beyond chronometric science, the fame associated with these timing competitions was considerable. Observatories witnessed and vouched for the level of precision that expert watchmakers were able to achieve. Aware of the prestige they could acquire, brands submitted specifically prepared movements to these trials. ZENITH took part in trials as early as 1897, and over the years, its movements have won a record 2,333 chronometry prizes, more than any other brand.
Among these, a movement outshone all others, the legendary calibre 135. Designed by Ephrem Jobin at the request of Charles Ziegler, Technical Director of ZENITH, this chronometer calibre was specifically developed to compete in chronometry competitions at the Observatories of Neuchâtel, Geneva, Kew Teddington, or Besançon. Its name is derived from its dimensions, 13 lines (or 30mm, the maximum size allowed in the wristwatch category competition at the Neuchatel Observatory trial) and 5mm in thickness. It was produced from 1949 to 1962 in two distinct versions: a commercial variant (135), and an “O” iteration (135-O) created exclusively for observatory chronometry trials. The calibre 135-O received 235 chronometry prizes, an absolute record in the history of watchmaking. Regulated by renowned Zenith “chronométriers” Charles Fleck and René Gygax, this movement set an extraordinary record with five consecutive first prizes in the wristwatch category at the Neuchâtel Observatory, from 1950 to 1954.
The calibre 135-O legend was revived in 2022 through an exceptional collaboration with Kari Voutilainen and Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo. Ten vintage movements from the 1950-1954 “serial winning” years were restored and decorated to the highest degree possible by master watchmaker Kari Voutilainen within an ultra-exclusive limited edition that struck a deeply resonating chord with discerning collectors. Icons stand the test of time, and the beauty of having such a rich heritage is being able to share it.
Today, ZENITH takes things a step further, resurrecting the Calibre 135 and bringing it into the 21st century. This new version of the movement uses the dimensions, the look and the architecture of its ancestor. It incorporates an offset center wheel, creating space to accommodate the oversized balance wheel that improves both precision and stability.
Yet, far from being a reproduction of the historical calibre, it is a modern re-engineering that integrates up-to-date technical solutions and materials wherever possible. The barrel now delivers 72 hours of power reserve compared to 40 hours in the 1950s version. It drives a new gear train featuring an optimized tooth geometry for enhanced efficiency. Operating at 2.5 Hz, the balance wheel features regulation screws and a Breguet overcoil. A signature feature of the 135-O, the double arrow-shaped regulator allows for precise adjustment, while a stop-second mechanism has been added to set the time to the exact second. The balance staff is now protected by spring-mounted jewel settings. The movements are regulated to be precise within +/-2 seconds per day, and their precision is officially certified by the COSC.
The sophisticated yet sober decoration of the calibre 135 is a testament to its history of excellence. Each component is meticulously finished. The bridges are distinguished by their “brick” guilloché finishing, inspired by the distinctive façade of red and white-painted bricks of the ZENITH Manufacture that proudly spell out the letters G.F.J., the initials of Georges Favre-Jacot. The barrel features circular a satin finish and the crown wheel is black-polished. The large jewels add another refined touch.
Perfection is in the details – the G.F.J.
After 160 years, the ambition to create a watch at the Zenith of perfection continues to guide the brand’s watchmakers. In tribute to this unique legacy, ZENITH designed a timepiece distilled to its quintessential characteristics, where perfection is in the details. True to the era of the calibre 135, the new G.F.J. watch captures the essence of the 1950s, seamlessly blending vintage elegance with contemporary accents. Its slender, elegant 39mm platinum round case features a stepped bezel and curved stepped lugs. Its thin profile and sculptural lines are graced by exceptional finishes with alternating brushed and polished surfaces. The notched crown is emblazoned with the G.F.J. initials.
Beneath the sapphire glass box, the G.F.J. is adorned with a blue dial – the ZENITH signature colour symbolizing, together with the star logo, the brand’s connection to the sky and its relentless search for precision. Its three-part construction creates a compelling sense of depth while meticulously crafted details add a refined touch of sophistication.
The outer ring features a “brick” guilloché pattern, faceted white gold hour markers, and a discreet minute track of 40 white gold beads applied by hand. The central part is crafted from deep blue Lapis Lazuli, whose gold-colored pyrite flecks inevitably evoke a starry sky. Their natural texture makes each dial unique. Lastly, indicating the passing seconds, the oversized subdial at 6 o’clock is in mother-of-pearl. The hours, minutes, and seconds are indicated by thin baton-style white gold hands.
The ZENITH G.F.J. comes with three different straps: a dark blue alligator leather strap, a black calfskin leather strap, and a blue “Saffiano” calfskin leather strap. The platinum pin buckle is engraved with the G.F.J initials and the brick pattern. It is also available upon request with a seven-row platinum bracelet, whose center links are embossed with the brick pattern.
“Few movements in watchmaking history have achieved the level of chronometric excellence and recognition as the calibre 135. More than just a technical achievement, it became a true icon of precision. Bringing it back for our 160th anniversary is about honoring this legacy while sharing it with a new generation of collectors. With the G.F.J., we have reimagined this legendary movement, not simply as a nod to the past, but as a way to share a defining part of its heritage while offering a contemporary interpretation that resonates with today’s spirit, and we are deeply proud of it.”
Benoît de Clerck, CEO of ZENITH WATCHES.
Released in a limited edition of 160 pieces, the G.F.J is available for pre-order exclusively from the brand’s physical and online boutiques, as well as through authorized retailers worldwide.
